Interview with Sergio Germano, new president of the Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani.
Sergio Germano is the new president of the Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani, the prestigious body with which almost 600 wineries are associated, producing over 66 million bottles in the 10 thousand hectares of vineyards divided into 9 denominations between DOC and DOCG: Barolo, Barbaresco, Dogliani, Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba, Barbera d’Alba, Langhe, Dolcetto d’Alba, Nebbiolo d’Alba and Verduno Pelaverga.
Sergio Germano succeeds Matteo Ascheri, who had been at the helm of the Consortium for the two previous mandates. Born in 1965 into a family with a long winemaking tradition, the new president is the owner of the Ettore Germano company in Serralunga d’Alba, which he runs together with his wife Elena and his children Elia and Maria. A production reality that has achieved important results not only in the more classic wines such as Barolo or Barbera d’Alba, but also in opening its horizons to white vines such as Nascetta, Chardonnay and Riesling and successfully dedicating itself to sparkling wines such as Alta Langa and those based on Nebbiolo.
“I am honored and proud to have obtained the trust of my colleagues and producer friends – was his first comment after his election in May -. I have decided to make myself available to our great territory with humility and a spirit of service”.
What are the objectives of his presidency?
“I believe strongly in teamwork and in the strength of our hills: my mandate will be characterized by direct dialogue with everyone, from the Board of Directors to the production base, first and foremost. The Consortium is a very important body and after years as a councilor I intend to seize this opportunity to be very concrete and incisive. I am convinced that we can only win by talking and remaining united, without upheavals, but with the ambition of being contemporary in continuity, adapting to changing scenarios. I am not a revolutionary, I like to keep a low profile, think about practical things and technical aspects, counting a lot on the collaboration of all the advisors”.
With events such as Grandi Langhe in Turin and the Barolo & Barbaresco World Opening in New York, the Consortium has recently pushed hard on the topic of promotion. Will it continue to be a central element?
“Promotion is undoubtedly important and we will continue to support it, with the aim of making it grow further. Bringing Grandi Langhe to Turin was a great intuition and we will continue on this path, just as we will continue to go around the world to make our denominations known. But we will also have to commit ourselves to bringing the world to us, to our magical hills”.
On the protection front, however, the Consortium has put forward many proposals in recent months, some of which have created heated discussions among producers. How did the requests to change the specifications that were launched at the beginning of the year end?
«The producers said yes to limiting the bottling area for Barolo and Barbaresco, which from now on must coincide with the winemaking area. This is an important decision: the specifications drawn up sixty years ago did not place any limitations on bottling, as it was unthinkable at the time to transport wine over long distances, while now this possibility is hypothetically permitted throughout the world. Therefore, given the growing attention that Barolo and Barbaresco in bulk were receiving on some international markets, we chose to take action and safeguard the denominations from both a technical and commercial point of view. The process will not be short, however: after approval by the producers, the change must be presented first in Turin, then in Rome and finally in Brussels. The objective can be achieved no earlier than 2025».
Another proposal, however, has created much discussion: eliminating the ban on planting Nebbiolo vineyards suitable for Barolo or Barbaresco on hillsides facing north. How did it end?
«The producers said no to this proposal and it had been clear for months that the quorum would not be reached. This is a delicate issue, which concerns both the historicity and the very image of the two denominations. For this reason I believe it was right to avoid dangerous rushes forward, giving ourselves more time to study it in depth. The issue of climate change is still on the table and certainly cannot be ignored. No one has a crystal ball, but we need to act consistently and seriously, pursuing real sustainability and not just superficial. Attention will therefore be focused on implementing scientific research on specific wine-growing issues in collaboration with universities and specialized bodies».
Are you worried about the crisis that seems to have hit red wines internationally?
«If I said no, I would be guilty of presumption and short-sightedness. We must pay attention to everything, even to signals that come from far away. However, it is also fair to say that our production is limited, able to stay on the market by focusing on its great prestige and keeping away from certain dynamics that do not belong to us. The half-yearly or annual analyses may indicate some deviations, but for our wines what counts most are long-term trends and for now I do not see any particular alarm signals”.
by Cav. Roberto Fiori