The merenda sinòira is one of the myths of summer conviviality in Langa and Roero. The authoritative TRECCANI encyclopedia certifies its typicality: <<Piedmontese gastronomic tradition consisting of an afternoon meal that, due to the abundance of food (usually cold: bread, breadsticks, cheeses, cured meats, vegetables, omelettes, sauces, etc.) and its long duration, can replace dinner.>> Definition that, brought to the hills of wine and truffles, is characterized by qualifying determinations in relation to the original peasant nature of a refreshing break in the hard, hot and long summer afternoon of work. Hence the characteristics of robustness, practicality and freshness that distinguish its contents and methods, codified by the civilization of the tavern in the suggestive setting of the tòpia.
Therefore, ready-made dishes fresh from the cellar, from crutìn (preferably) or from the refrigerator. The unmissable cold cuts, the bagnèt verd with anchovies, a salad accompanied by onion omelette, the giardiniera enriched with hard-boiled eggs, the tuma, the peaches in red wine or in the zabaglione cold from the fridge, the cornmeal biscuits dipped in Moscato or in the sweet vinified Favorita and kept in a grill in the fridge. But the central and soul of the merenda sinòira is undoubtedly the carpione that Luciano Degiacomi, founder of our Order, always wants out of the fridge. The classic version with breaded chicken or veal “medallions”, eggs and courgettes, is combined with interesting local variations. In the Roero of the fortresses here are the “hunchbacked and golden” tench from the fishponds of Ceresole. In the Langa here is the tuma of the high pastures. And, just a little further on, From Bardon to San Marzano Oliveto, here is the surprise of the boiled meat. And everyone glorifies and keeps secret the recipe for their own personal carpione. Everyone declares themselves ready for a challenge that deserves a championship.
As mentioned, in the gastronomic imagination of Alba, the merenda sinòira yearns for the shade of the tòpia, the pergola once strictly of vines (mostly lignanga or strawberry grapes), today also of wisteria and jasmine. One of the symbols of the civilization of the tavern as it guarantees the presence of people who know how to give the right value to time, hospitality, conviviality. Under all the tòpias, the ritual of the merenda sinòira honors the carpione and tradition with personality.
Perfect in its essentiality and Langhe classicism, Filippo and Silvia’s tòpia in Albaretto della Torre smells of grapes, jasmine and wonderful flavors. An obligatory stop for those who want to encounter the spirit of the Langhe. Down there, Filippo’s merenda sinòira finds sublimation: here is the identifying raw Fassone meat, here is another omelette, here are the tomatoes stuffed with bagnèt verd, here is an unexpected bottle, here is a story, here are the peaches stuffed with raspberry coulis.
Of great beauty is the wisteria tòpia that adorns the “Ristorante Battaglino dal 1919” in Bra. Lovingly guided by Alessia, the industrious tòpia is the central element of a modern and attractive style of hospitality, faithful to the convivial spirit built by a chosen dynasty of innkeepers and become legend. Here, between Bra sausage, herb omelettes, sweet and sour peppers and anchovies with bagnèt verd, the merenda sinòira feels at home and finds warm and engaging expression.
The tòpia of the “Giardino-Da Felicìn” in Monforte smells of internationality and perfectly reflects the style of the place, a myth of hospitality in Langa with 28 years of starred restaurants embedded in the indispensable pride of identity. For Nino, the tòpia is synonymous with friendship and conviviality. Knowing that that tòpia favored the conversation of Cesare Pavese, Primo Levi and Gabriel Garcia Marquez adds cultural flavors to Nino’s merenda sinòira proposals: marinated trout with vegetables and fresh ginger, sautéed courgettes with bun’om syrup, pasta with anchovies and lemon zest.
The tòpia that at the Unione di Treiso raised the visionary dream of Carlìn Petrini has a taste of jovial merende sinòire cliques and Barbaresco. With sobriety langhetta is a simple ceramic tile to remember it: <<In this tavern, in the early eighties of the last century, a group of friends conceived and thought about the birth of the Slow Food movement.>> With the same identity style Fabio and Rezi prepare the merenda sinòira, coloring it green, that of the bagnèt verd with tongue, hard-boiled egg, anchovies, tomato, fresh tomini. Or that of spinach for tasty frittatine. Friciule with lard and potato subric complete the proposals to complement the classicism.
At the Antica Torre di Barbaresco the graceful jasmine tòpia recalls the taste of conviviality that Cinto (Giacinto Albarello) and Teresa had created with tajarìn and fried or carpione river fish in a little house on the banks of the Tanaro. Values and flavours that Maurizio cultivates with modern application, elevating the tòpia to an emblem of hospitality and the signature cuisine of the tajarìn of Langa.
The exquisiteness that characterizes hospitality is found in every proposal from merenda sinòira, from omelettes with peppers with tuna sauce, from anchovies with bagnèt verd to those ham rolls and chicken in jelly that have almost disappeared from the menus and are worthy of attention.
Significantly, even the signature tòpies (signed by Paolo Pejrone) and starred ones of the Antica Corona Reale in Cervere and All’Enoteca di Canale love carpione. For Gian Piero Vivalda in the form of the “Organic egg”, while for Davide Palluda in the “Marinated fruit and vegetables”, 18 elements different in processing, seasoning and consistencies, then united by the marinade.
by Maestro Luciano Bertello